How To Train a Dog For Leash Walking

How To Train a Dog For Leash Walking

Taking your dog for a walk can be one of the most mutually beneficial activities you and your dog can share. Walks do not just serve as potty breaks. There are plenty of dogs that have a yard or potty patch to eliminate, while others depend on a stroll to do their business. Getting outdoors and exploring is a  benefit to all dogs of all sizes and ages. Walks are an opportunity to get mental and physical exercise. Your dogs brain will get a good workout as they process the countless sights, sounds, smells, people, and experiences on an outing. Walks are also an ideal time for humans and canines to develop and maintain their bond, build on their relationship, and practice basic training. Being engaged with your dog on outings does so much to enhance your relationship with your dog and encourages your dog to be connected and responsive to you. Walking your leash trained dog can be a rewarding shared experience. On the other hand, trying to walk a dog with poor walking skills can be very uncomfortable and unpleasant, often resulting in fewer walks and therefore more behavior problems. So let’s get started on teaching our dogs to walk nicely on a leash.

Before you set out to train your puppy or dog to walk on a leash, you must first establish your own concept of acceptable leash manners. Your dog has no idea how you would like them to behave when walking on a leash, so be sure to be clear in your own mind before you get frustrated at your dog. Once you know what you hope your end result to be, you can teach your dog the skills they will need to achieve that goal.

Walking on leash is often referred to as “heeling”, but heeling is actually a term more accurately attributed to a competitive obedience behavior.  The dog is required to walk on the handler’s left side with their right ear lined up with the seam of the handler’s pants. In daily life, most of us are satisfied with a more casual version of this. Walking calmly on a loose leash without lagging, lunging, or crossing back and forth in front and around you generally qualifies as fine leash manners. We refer to polite leash walking as “loose leash walking”. The characteristics and criteria for loose leash walking are:

  • Your dog walking on one side, not switching back and fourth and potentially tripping you
  • The leash has some slack in it most of the time. Picture a leash looking like a “J” shape from your hand to the dogs collar or harness
  • Your dog moves at your pace (i.e. slowing down and speeding up when you do)
  • Your dog stops when you do. (An automatic side sit is handy but optional.)
  • Your dog moves forward when you cue him do so, by saying something like “let’s go”

Teaching your dog to walk nicely on leash can be incredibly simple especially with young puppies who are inclined by nature to be great at playing the “follow me” game. Sticking close by their caregiver is in a pups best interest. As a pup rapidly matures and gains confidence, this inclination to stick super close is likely to dissipate. With this in mind, try to get started on the foundation of following skills as soon as possible so you can take advantage of your pup’s preference to stay close.

You can of course also teach an adult dog to master loose leash walking skills. Undoubtedly, it may be more challenging than teaching a puppy because the adult dog may have a history of learning that pulling works to get them where they aim to go. If your dog gets where they want to go by pulling you, it means the behavior of pulling is being reinforced (albeit unintentionally).Teaching your puppy or adult dog good walking skills will take time and consistency on your part, but this is a worthwhile investment for a lifetime of enjoyable walks. Some key concepts to to keep in mind are:

  • Ignore any unwanted pulling by stopping and standing still when it happens. Alternate options are for you to take a few steps backwards so you dog looses ground, or turn and switch direction. The main point here is that you do not continue moving forward with your dog as they drag you down the street. To your dog, forward motion is the reward. Don’t reward pulling by continuing to move forward. Instead, stop, turn, or back up
  • Do reward you dog with praise and yummy treats, when they keep the leash slack while walking along with you. They can even be a bit forward, behind, or to the side on a casual walk, as long as they are not pulling, or dragging they should be rewarded for improved behavior. You can get pickier as the training moves along
  • Think of loose leash like a gas pedal, which results in a reward of moving forward. A tight leash is like a break pedal, which removes your dog’s reward of forward motion


Supplies And Tools That Set You Up For Success

As your dogs trainer, you need to be organized and prepared for training sessions. You need your lesson plan; a clear idea of what you are setting out to do, as well as the steps and techniques you will need to achieve your goals. You also need to have the correct tools, supplies, and equipment for you and your dog.

  • Treat pouch – Purchase a hands-free treat pouch. There’s a reason professional trainers use treat pouches. Having rewards readily available is far better than having to fumble in your pockets or the opening of a cumbersome plastic bag to get a treat. By the time you get the reward to your novice canine student you have lost the advantage of good timing. You also do not want your dog to rely on seeing a bag of treats in your hand to respond to you. Having a hands free treat pouch helps you be an organized instructor.
  • Training treats – Have a variety of tiny, tasty, healthy treats loaded in your treat pouch. It is better to have more than you need so you don’t run out and loose the opportunity to reward your dog for a job well done.
  • Attention getting reinforcing toys – For some dogs a tug toy or squeaky ball (with or without a rope) are highly rewarding items that can assist the trainer in getting and maintaining their dogs attention and interest. If you have a toy motivated dog, consider bringing one along with you on walks and training sessions. 
  • 6 foot leash – We prefer a flat leash that is not heavier than it needs to be for the size dog wearing it. No retractable leashes. Retractable leashes are not recommended for training your dog to walk close by you without pulling. They are designed to be taught at all times and encourage your dog to walk well in front of you. As a result, your dog will become desensitized  to the feel of a tight leash and will inevitably pull more.
  • Dog poop bags – Regardless of where you live, and the laws in place, fecal waste should always be promptly cleaned up and disposed of. You don’t want your own dog exposed to your neighbors dog feces, so in kind, pick up after your dog. It is also extremely important to clean up and pack out any time the dog defecates on a nature trail. Canine feces is harmful to local wildlife. It can introduce disease into the ecosystem. The presence of dog feces can also stress out and cause adverse behavioral changes in wildlife. you and your dog should enjoy your walk but leave no trace behind.
  • A well-fitted harness or collar – harnesses and collars should be fitted to the manufacturers specifications. People tend to fit their dogs collars and harnesses too loose in an effort to insure their dog is comfortable. To the contrary, your dogs equipment will be more comfortable and work more effectively when it fits. Consider how you would want a back pack to fit if you were hiking. You would want it to be snug against your body, not sliding around. Most importantly, you do not want your new puppy or dog to suddenly slip out of their gear, finding themselves loose and possibly in danger in an outdoor environment. For dogs with fragile necks and weak tracheas, a harness is preferred over a collar, at least until the dog is reliability walking without pulling on leash.
  • Non-aversive walking aids – If your dog rushes forward, lunges, and is prone to completely tune you out, consider using a front clip style harness or head halter to add gentle leverage in preventing your dog from pulling as much. Some harness provide the option to use the front or back clip. Dogs can get comfortable enough and fully able to pull, even when wearing anti-pull equipment. Basic training focusing on increased responsiveness and impulse control will go a long way in improving your dogs behavior in stimulating environments, but you can also choose the best equipment to aid you in your training goals. No choke chains, prong collars, or e-collars please. These punishment-based style walking aids can have unintended adverse behavioral side effects. Trainers that follow a positive reinforcement methodology of training do not recommend these products.

Step-By-Step Guide To Mastering Loose Leash Walking Skills


Practice Indoors

While the ultimate goal of loose leash walking is to walk your pup outside, set the foundation for this challenging skill indoors in a quiet, non-distracting environment. It is far easier for your dog and you to focus on the training game indoors rather than out. While this approach takes time, the end result is an adult dog that has a truly solid and reliable skill that is based on a super solid foundation. Like any successful team, you need to practice on your home turf (indoors) prior to nailing it at an away game (outdoors). If your dog doesn’t’ follow you on a slack leash in a non-distracting indoor environment, they will surely pull or refuse to move when they are outdoors. Your dog (and you) need plenty of opportunities to practice walking in a comfortable and controlled setting. Dog owners are often quick to get frustrated when the pup walks poorly on leash. We need to remember that our dogs are not genetically hard wired knowing what we want them to do. Loose leash walking skills need to be taught, especially when we are competing with the outside world. For instance, teach your dog to walk past a common treat on the floor at home before expecting them to ignore a chicken bone you pass by on the sidewalk. Likewise, you need opportunities to practice your training techniques, like standing still or backing up (penalty steps) when the leash is taut, and rewarding your dog at your side as they move along with you with a slack leash. Accurately timed feedback (your marker word and reward) plays a crucial role in your pups ability to master this concept. You as your dogs trainer, need to hone in on your observational skills, your marker timing, and your reward delivery.

  • Schedule practice sessions just prior to your dogs mealtime. Plan on short 3 to 5 minute sessions for young pupils. Adult dogs may enjoy slightly longer sessions of 10 to 15 minutes. Sessions can always be broken up with some mannerly playtime so you can take a break and then resume formal training.
  • Begin loose leash walking training sessions by standing still with leash in hand. Simply mark (“good”, “yes”, or use a clicker) and reward your dog for looking at you. Making eye contact can initially be prompted by showing your pup a treat and the moving the treat up near your collars bones. That placement of the treat should result in your puppy gazing up towards your face and being rewarded for doing so. With repetition you will no longer need to guide your dogs gaze. In this exercise you are teaching your dog to give you eye contact and attention. This simple exercise should feel easy and fun for both you and your dog.
  • Now that you have your dogs attention. Use a word or phrase like “let’s go” or make a little kissing noise while taking a few steps forward. If your dogs moves with you, keeping the leash slack, mark and reward. If the leash tightens, stop and say nothing. Try again by taking a few steps in the other direction.
  • Repeat without too much time between repetitions or your dog may get stuck in the sit position, or engrossed in a distraction.
  • You can also use a lure (a piece of food in your hand) to encourage your dog to follow at your side) or a hand-targeting behavior if they have previously been trained that.
  • Gradually increase the number of steps you take before marking and rewarding your dog for following you with a slack leash.
  • Deliver the reward by your side so your dog is inclined to want to position themselves there.
  • Switch directions and the pattern of your walk frequently to keep this attentive following game interesting, as well as too avoid your dog getting distracted.
  • Practice in other areas of your home.
  • If you have been using a food lure, start practicing with less luring. Keep food rewards in your pocket or treat pouch between intermittent rewards for walking with a slack leash so your dog does not become overly dependent on seeing treats to perform.


Add Mild Distractions

  • Practice walking toward a mildly interesting object in the house, such as a toy placed about 10 to 15 feet away on the floor or a family member.
  • When the leash is slack, stop about 2 feet away from the toy/person and wait for your dog to sit. Mark, reward, and then release your dog to go investigate and play with the toy or person.
  • If your dog pulls to the distraction, stop walking towards it and take a few steps backing away.
  • Repeat your approach until you can reward your dog with access to the item for not pulling to get to it.
  • You will also want to practice walking past the distraction, and rewarding your dog for taking a reward from you rather than pulling to get to the item.


Add More Challenging Distractions Indoors

  • Place some treats or a favorite toy about 10 to 15 feet away from your dog.
  • Walk your dog towards the item.
  • If your dog pulls, turn and walk back to the starting point.
  • Head towards the item again provided there is slap in the leash. Stop when you are about one to two feet away from the item and ask your dog to sit and wait for eye contact. Then release your dog with a release work phrase like “OK! Go get it!”

This can take awhile, but it is worth it. Not only does your dog learn that dragging you around doesn’t get them to where they want to go, but your dog learns that if they want something in the environment they should check in with you to see if it’s alright.


Learning To Navigate Crowds And Distractions

  • Set up and practice more complicated walking patterns and turns indoors.
  • Remember to keep training sessions short and fun for you and your dog.
  • Play the follow me game in your home both on and off leash. 
  • Make an interesting walking corse out of chairs and other items for you and your dog to weave through, circle, and do figure eights.
  • Add some distractions (toys, food, family members).
  • Add basic manners cues like sit, down, name recognition, and hand-targeting to keep your dog thinking.
  • Be sure to reward with praise, access to toys, and treats.

When your dog is doing well with their leash training in the home, begin using a variable rate of reinforcement by varying the number of steps they need to make on a slack leash before getting a reward. 

Going Outside

Once your dog understands what your criteria is for walking nicely on a leash indoors in a low distraction environment, begin to use other mildly distracting locations for your training classroom. Some good options are:

  • If you live in an apartment complex use shared spaces like hallways, lobbies, and courtyards.
  • If you have a private home use your back yard, front yard, and driveway.

You will need to use a higher rate of reinforcement and a higher value treat when transitioning to more challenging environments. Expect your dogs performance to decline when they are in a highly distracting environment. It’s ok for their criteria to be a bit lower outdoors than indoors with the understanding that over time, with practice, and lots of positive reinforcement they will be able to be as attentive and responsive to you outdoors as they are at home. 

Expand your training environment beyond your home to new places, different routes in and out of your neighborhood, to parks and nature areas, and on assorted modes of transportation (cars, trains, buses, even boats).

Don’t forget to just stop moving and hang out sometimes to let your dog take it all in. Especially when you go to new places. If your dog has benefited from proper early puppyhood socialization and desensitization, they will likely adapt to new walking routes and places readily and enthusiastically. Be sure to be sensitive to your individual dogs need to adjust. Introduce novelty with a positive approach, pairing new things with your upbeat and reinforcing attitude, backed up with some tasty treats to seal the deal.

For most people, their dogs will need to be walked outdoors in challenging environments before loose leash walking skills have been mastered. Continue formal training sessions indoors focusing on systematic but strict criteria. On your outdoor walks, sprinkle in the formal training using frequent reinforcement in the lower distraction environments like quiet side street and parks. It’s ok to lower your criteria when you are in a challenging situation but try to avoid reinforcing awful walking behavior – that could be characterized as extreme pulling, refusal to move, and putting thing in their mouth to eat. We want to avoid our dogs learning, repeating, and being reinforced for unwanted behavior. It will make it much harder to accomplish your long terms goals.

Typically, dogs become increasingly distracted and aroused as a walk progresses. To help tackle this problem, increase the rate, value, and variety of rewards to adequately compete with your dogs interest in the environment. Rewards for walking nicely might include an opportunity for an extra long sniff at a tree trunk or fire hydrant. Incorporating these types of life rewards will greatly strengthen your training program and elevate the enjoyment of your walks.

If your dog is a social butterfly, you need to be extra vigilant to prevent them from becoming overly excited or distracted by potential playmates. If someone approaches, let them know your dog is learning good leash manners and you would appreciate their cooperation. The person (with or without a dog) can continue to walk on by. If they do not not have a dog and you would like to engage with them, you could ask them to give your dog a treat  (you can give the treat or hand it to the person) for siting politely.

To set you and your dog up for success, walks should not consist of a long, straight, and inevitably predictable or boring route. Provide your dog with a more enriching experience. Vary the direction, destination, and pace of your walk. Occasionally practice other manners exercises like sit, down, and hand-targeting. Practice backing away from your dog and then calling them to you during a walk. Unpredictability encourages your dog to pay greater attention to you because they won’t be able to anticipate your next move. Essentially, it comes down to you being as, if not more interesting than the surrounding environment.

You can pre-plan and control some outdoor distractions, such as a friend walking by with shopping bags, a calm dog passing by on leash, or someone on a bicycle. Begin working at a distance your dog can accomplish. Gradually move the distraction closer as your dog’s leash manners improve. It is wise to keep an eye on what is around you and adjust your proximity to distractions to make it easier for your dog to succeed. This is not you avoiding things; it is you controlling your environment to the best of your ability to help your dog learn the goals you have set for them.


Trouble Shooting

Common causes that get in the way of making progress teaching our canine companions to walk nicely on leash include:

  • The fear factor – often the result of improper or insufficient socialization and/or an extreme change in the dogs living environment
  • Being overly excitable or enthusiastic
  • Having a genetic propensity for high prey drive
  • Lack of impulse control
  • Lack of basic manners training
  • Lack of human canine bond due to insufficient relationship building through training
  • Inadequate mental enrichment
  • Inadequate exercise
  • Poor choice in food rewards
  • Poor understanding and use of life rewards


If your dog lags behind or puts on breaks refusing to move, they may be experiencing discomfort due to a medical issue or ill-fitting gear, or fear due to inadequate socialization. You may also need to consider adjusting your pace if you have long legs but have a small dog. If you have ruled out these possible causes, your dog may simply need more time, patience, and reinforcement to learn the concept of walking along side you on a leash. When they lag or stop, you should stop walking, continue to look forward, and wait. When you feel slack on the leash indicating your pup has moved forward, mark and reward. Deliver the reward at your side with your dog still in a standing position to avoid them stopping again. You want to reward forward motion with praise, treats and eye contact. Moving forward makes good stuff happen. Lagging behind makes good stuff go away.

If your dog is continuing to pull despite your best training efforts, evaluate your approach. 

  • Are you feeding too few treats? 
  • Are you not reinforcing, and thereby not communicating to your dog when they are not pulling? 
  • Do you need higher value/tastier treats? 
  • Are you training in the wrong environment? Choose an easier classroom. 
  • Is your equipment not helping you? Consider humane anti-pull front clip harness or head halter. Have you established a marker word (“good” or “yes”) and done solid basic training (eye contact, name recognition, sit, hand target) in a non distracting environment before going outdoors? 
  • Have you systematically brought the training outdoors into increasingly more challenging environments but only once your dog has graduated from the previous easier grade? 
  • Have you considered enrolling in a group dog training class to help your dog learn to focus on you around controlled distractions?
  • Have you considered consulting with an experienced dog trainer to do one on one private walking sessions to get you and your dog on the right track?

A good rule of thumb is if it feels too hard, make your goals easier and then gradually raise your criteria. Having expectations that are too high only frustrate you the teacher, and your dog the student. Reward based training relies on us keeping the training positive and achievable for the student. Teaching your dog to walk nicely on leash may be one of the most challenging behaviors you will teach, in some of the most challenging environments. Be patient with yourself and your dog, focusing on the achievements you make together. Being outdoors, exploring all your neighborhood and beyond has to offer is one of the best ways you and your dog can spend time together. Enjoy it!

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